Swann song

I miss the tall ginkgos with their rotting fruits,
the way the berries felt beneath my feet with just
enough crunch, a pleasure to step on. The sidewalk
was covered with ginkgo leaves, too, bright yellow
fans dampened with the rain. A storm had come through
the night before, had knocked the leaves off along
with the fruit. The air was full of the smell of
them, acrid, rotting, sweet.
We were lost and I was defensive about it, but if you
were going to be lost, this was the neighborhood to
be lost in. The street was tunneled in by wide brick
rowhouses, voluptuous Victorians with turrets and
whimsical windows accented with stone. Each house had
a set of black iron steps, shiny and slick,
one-two-three-four, up to the entry. The steps made
little caves over doors to English basements, a term
which conjures up mold and damp and a view of other
peoples’ ankles, the angling of a dog’s leg as it
releases a spray of urine against low iron window
bars.
He got angry with me after I got angry with him and
we had an embarrassing fight in front Martha, a hissy
fit that revealed more than we intended. A tense
moment with the map revealed my mistake and our luck:
we were three blocks from Adams Morgan, a short walk
to a few cold beers and a platter of Ethiopian food.
The three of us marched from Swann Street to 18th
Street, walked uphill against a thin wind. It was
getting dark, people were bundled up against the
cold. We walked without talking, single-file past the
homeless, the crazies, the young people with their
know-everything attitude. And then we shared a meal
with all the awkwardness of something being over,
knowing we had years to go before it would really
end.
This is
from a Round Robin prompt this week, my (slightly
edited) response to a very different photograph.
Photo by Antediluvial.
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The bitter scent of coming winter
I remember preparing a meal for him in the decay of autumn, after the leaves had dropped from the trees and lay rotting in the gutter and the breeze was turning cold and harsh. I was just 21 years old and could focus on the kitchen, had the time to think about cooking, and it was all still new, too, love and cookery. There was a recipe in Gourmet for roasted fall vegetables. I skinned and hacked a heavy butternut squash, added knobby shallots, garlic, and chunks of red potato, then tossed the vegetables with olive oil and roasted them in the oven. Near the end of cooking, I added slivered sage leaves, the bitter scent of coming winter.

Sage takes well to butter and olive oil, get crisp
and intense, medicinal over gnocchi, tucked among
thick slices of potato. My husband and I grow sage in
our front yard. The plant sits between the
flat-leafed parsley and the lemon verbena, its silver
green leaves upright, purple flowers still drawing
honeybees. I’ll have to trim it soon, deadhead the
flowers and clean off the spider webs in preparation
for the feasts and sadness of fall.
Here is the original recipe, from Epicurious.
Add 2 tablespoons slivered sage in the last ten
minutes of cooking to recreate my more winter-scented
dish.
Roasted Autumn
Vegetables
1 1/2 pounds small red potatoes
1 pound shallots (about 24), peeled and trimmed
5 tablespoons olive oil
1 bay leaf
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled
4 garlic cloves, crushed
2 pounds butternut squash, peeled and cut into
3/4-inch pieces (about 4 cups)
fresh thyme sprigs for garnish, if desired
In a bowl, toss together the potatoes, quartered, the
shallots, 4 tablespoons of
the oil,
the bay leaf, the dried thyme, the garlic, and salt
and pepper to taste. Spread the vegetables in an
oiled large roasting pan and roast them in the middle
of a preheated 375°F. oven, shaking the pan every 5
to 10 minutes, for 25 minutes. In a bowl toss the
squash with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and salt
and pepper to taste and add it to the pan. Roast the
vegetables, shaking the pan occasionally, for 10 to
20 minutes more, or until they are tender. Discard
the bay leaf and garnish the vegetables with the
thyme sprigs.
Gourmet
October 1990
Image: Attractive sage bush, much
nicer than ours, from eHow.





